talking about high heels as a symbol of women

Body discipline and body liberation

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01. High heels: a symbol of the female body

Whether an individual's body belongs to the individual or to society has always been a topic of discussion.

02. Separation: How high heels construct and discipline the female body

Today's high heels are unique to women. Women bloom and show their beauty in high heels.

03. The liberation of the female body contained in high heels

Although the history of high heels is a history of gender differentiation, this does not mean that the female body is only and always in a disciplinary position.

The body is technology, and the body is also a weapon.

Body research is an emerging research direction in sociology in recent years. Women's bodies are an important component of women's lives, which contain profound social implications. High heels, a symbol of the female body, symbolize and construct the female body, both in terms of the physical body and the communicative body. According to the development history of high-heeled shoes, they were generally popular among men and women in the early days, and later became exclusive items for women. High-heeled shoes fully reflect the gender distinction between men and women, as well as the discipline of women's bodies in a patriarchal society. However, women are not willing to remain in a subordinate position. Women attach high heels to their bodies. Through the expression of body technology, they run counter to the rules of patriarchal society and show a strong sense of subjectivity. Therefore, they also achieve their own physical liberation in wearing high heels.

Liberating the body is the material carrier that people rely on to survive and live. As the material basis owned by human beings, it brings all possibilities for people to act. However, in previous sociology and even the entire social science research, the "absence" of body research shows that people once focused on the exploration of the soul and ignored the existence of the body. In the field of gender, the issue of women's rights has long been an important topic of concern in academia and society, but the female body is rarely considered the focus of discussion.

Nowadays, paying attention to the body has gradually become a research trend in many fields. Paying attention to the female body is one of the orientations of sociology and feminism in the new era. High heels are one of the special cultural symbols closely related to women. The relationship between high heels and women is obvious and inseparable. Since the birth of high heels, beauty-loving aristocratic women have never stopped pursuing high heels.

The abandonment of men in the 18th century made high heels exclusive to women. With the industrialization of fashion, over the next hundreds of years, a dazzling array of high heels were placed on women's shoe cabinets in stores, accounting for almost all women's shoes. Images of women wearing high heels can also be seen everywhere in daily life. High heels are increasingly becoming an important necessity for women. Today in the 21st century, high heels have become popular all over the world. As a symbol of the female body, they have even become a part of the female body.

It can be said that the popularity of high heels is due to the praise of women, who become "more beautiful" because of high heels. However, just such a common phenomenon contains profound problems that are not easy for people to detect. High heels not only highlight the charm of women, but also quietly discipline the female body. From the perspective of body sociology, this article reviews the development history of high heels to explore the construction and discipline of high heels on women's bodies, and further explores the issue of women's body liberation.

02. Separation: How high heels construct and discipline the female body

Today's high heels are unique to women. Women bloom and show their beauty in high heels. However, at first high heels were generally popular among both men and women. The process of gradually becoming a symbol of women is a process in which the female body is constantly being disciplined. The development of high heels not only realizes the transformation from bisexuality to femininity, but also reflects the social distinction between men and women in a patriarchal society.

(1) Gender transformation in high heels - from male abandonment to female specificity

The development history of high heels is a history of fashion and also a history of social distinction. From the perspective of social class, high heels appear to be fashionable, but in fact they have always been a symbol of the upper class. From the perspective of men and women, it is always difficult to conceal the gender differences and distinctions behind the popularity of high heels.

It can be said that without men's giving up, there will be no women's exclusive possession. High heels are a manifestation of the gender distinction between men and women. They separate men from the two sexes and are the "residue" left by men to women. From the birth of high heels to the 18th century, both men and women had the right to wear high heels. High heels show their practical value and class distinction.

In the Middle Ages, both men and women at one time or another wore high heels, a type of wooden soles called pattens. Attached under expensive and fragile shoes, it can be used to avoid mud and uneven ground. High heels can also overcome people's congenital height defects and visually create a slender figure.

In the 16th century, the short, plain-looking Catherine de Medici stunned France by wearing 2-inch heels at her wedding to cement her marriage to the King of France. At the end of the 17th century and the beginning of the 18th century, French King Louis XIV, who was only about 1.63 meters tall, wore exquisitely carved high heels depicting war scenes, with heels as high as 4 inches (some say 5 inches). These two men set off the trend of wearing high heels among the upper class.

At that time, “men pursued high heels more than women. No matter how gorgeous and fashionable the ladies’ high heels were, they would be completely covered by the wide skirts. Therefore, they paid more attention to the naked decoration. High heels have become a man’s tireless pursuit.” Therefore, in order to demonstrate their noble social status and identity, men at that time pursued high heels as much as women. High heels went through a transitional stage from both genders to women.

At the end of the 16th century, the high heels worn by Persian warriors in order to step on the stirrups more firmly during battle set off a wave of Persian fever in Europe. Nobles in European society began to eagerly pursue Persian-style high heels, because high heels made them more virile and masculine in appearance. Since then, women's fashion has also begun to adopt elements from men's clothing.

In the 1630s, women cut their hair short, wore badges on their clothes, smoked cigarettes, and wore men's hats, all to project that masculine look. Likewise, women's acceptance of high heels is the result of their ongoing efforts to masculine their look.

At the end of the 17th century, men's and women's high heels gradually began to differ in shape, which was a precursor to the feminization of high heels. Men's heels have become squarer, shorter, more rugged, piled up, and larger; while women's heels have become increasingly slender, curvaceous, and tighter. The complex and gorgeous rococo style of the palace highlights the female turn of high heels: "Pay attention to the shape curve, hourglass-shaped high heels are the most popular, soft satin and brocade fabrics become the protagonists, beautiful toe tips, exquisite embroidery, steel shoe buckles, Decorated with precious stones, it gives people a delicate and fragile feeling.”

The curved feet and curved high heels make the shoes show feminine beauty, and women present a concave and convex, naturally curved body shape. This shape makes the female body exude a more elegant and aristocratic temperament, full of charming atmosphere. Therefore, compared with the previous neutral shoe style, high heels have made a distinction between men and women in form, especially the expression of female style has become increasingly prominent.

The 18th century was a watershed moment in the evolution of high heels for both men and women. If the previous high-heeled shoes only reflected the differences between different genders, then high-heeled shoes completely withdrawn from the stage of men's life and became exclusive for women, starting from the Enlightenment Movement in the 18th century. The Enlightenment brought people a new perspective of rationality and practicality.

Men's fashion also followed the Enlightenment. Men began to give up wearing jewelry and no longer wear brightly colored clothing with ostentatious fabrics; instead they wore dark, simple clothing that reflected masculine characteristics. Men's clothing no longer serves as a sign of class distinction, but its reflection of gender differences is becoming more and more obvious.

This is the so-called era of the great male renunciation. During this period, men were defined as rational and highly educated groups; while women were characterized as emotional, sensitive and poorly educated. This irrational definition of women's fashion reconstructs women's needs, and high heels are a typical example of the lack of practicality in women's clothing. It is diametrically opposed to the rationality and practicality advocated by the Enlightenment. As a result, high heels became synonymous with stupidity and effeminateness.

By 1740, men gave up wearing high heels altogether. To some extent, the special association of high heels with women taints male power as a symbol of status. It can be said that men's withdrawal, rather than women's struggle, made high heels a completely unique way of dressing for women from the 18th century. This change reflects a significant social gender distinction; it also shows that men give up high heels in pursuit of higher social status and power, and women naturally fall behind men.

(2) The historical construction of the relationship between high heels and women in a patriarchal society

The connection between high heels and women is more based on the gender social relationship between men and women. This historical construction not only reflects society’s view of the female body from the perspective of patriarchal culture, but also reflects the subordination of women to men, which is a neglect of female subjectivity.

In a patriarchal society, the society gradually constructs women as a group that should wear high heels. With the cooperation of high heels, the female body is more in line with the positioning of the male order. High heels have also become a tool for society to discipline women's bodies to some extent.

"Human beings have disciplined and punished their bodies to control and use their bodies to the maximum extent. This kind of discipline and punishment not only needs to be implemented through various existing social mechanisms, but also requires people to consciously control their bodies and Restrictions on dress and behavior.”

From the time when high heels first came into contact with women, to when women generally voluntarily pursue high heels, women have always consciously restrained their bodies and clothing, which is a form of physical discipline imposed by men on women. High heels were first associated with women in ancient Rome. At that time, sex trafficking was a legal social practice, and potential clients could identify a woman as a prostitute by the high heels she wore on her feet.

The first close contact between high heels and women occurred in women at the bottom of society. If we look at it from a modern perspective, high heels not only mark a profession, but also mark a lower social class to some extent, and the holders of profession and class are women.

In the late 15th century, the Turks invented a type of thick-soled shoes called chopine, which can be regarded as an important milestone in the history of women's fashion. Zhuopin shoes have been popular among ladies for more than two centuries. The materials and craftsmanship of the shoes are extremely exquisite, and more importantly, the soles are so high that they require the support of a servant to walk (usually 7-8 inches, up to 30 inches).

The height of the sole obviously greatly limits women's normal walking, but the swaying appearance shows women's fashion and attractiveness. Men, as role makers and appreciators, do not wear such high heels. The more women rock high heels, the more society considers it attractive and fashionable. Like corsets and heavy skirts, trousers are a tool used by men to discipline women. As most people know, using clothing to restrain women is a common tactic of men around the world. Some believe platform shoes were the beginning of linking women's rights to male dominance. In the old Venice, husbands hoped that their wives would stagger and have difficulty moving after wearing high heels, which would effectively reduce the chance of their wives having an affair with other men.

Some scholars also believe that Chinese concubines and Turkish palace slaves wore very high shoes, possibly not just for aesthetic reasons, but to prevent them from escaping from the palace. Women's high heels are not only a product of men's restraint on women, but also have significant sexual connotations, marking women's sexual characteristics and representing the temptation to men.

In the mid-19th century, high heels became associated with the female sex industry. Pornographic publishers took advantage of the emerging photography technology of the time by photographing nude female models wearing modern high-heeled shoes. Therefore, Semmelhack, author of "Heights of Fashion: A History of the Elevated Shoe" (Heights of Fashion: A History of the Elevated Shoe) believes that pornography has led to high heels being regarded as a kind of female decoration that can arouse people's sexual desire.

In Europe and the United States, there was initially a negative attitude toward the sexiness of feet and a desire to ban women from wearing high heels. Because in their view, high heels on women's feet have witchcraft properties. High heels are a tool for women to use magic to seduce men, with the purpose of making men fall in love with them.

In the mid-20th century, fashion designers such as Dior invented a shallow stiletto high heel called the Stiletto that became very popular. The ultra-thin heels and narrow toes are not only charming and elegant, but were also cleverly combined with boots in the early 1960s. Together with the ultra-short "miniskirt", the women's bare legs and charming high heels complement each other even more. It can be seen that from the perspective of male subjects in a patriarchal society, whether it is the positive role of shoes or people's negative views, high heels have always become the spokesperson for women's sex appeal. People criticize women wearing high heels for tempting men, and at the same time enjoy this temptation. The appreciators are men, and so are the critics.

The attractiveness of a female body displayed in high heels is always defined from a male perspective. As Bourdieu said, "Male desire is the desire for possession and eroticized domination; female desire is the desire for male domination and eroticized submission, or strictly speaking, it is the eroticized recognition of domination." .

In the male order, women can only obey and be recognized, and high heels are her way of expression. The sexual connotation and male vision of high heels began to subtly change in the late 1860s, and shoes became more closely integrated with femininity. Although subsequent socioeconomic and political conditions would affect the height of shoes, high heels never left the female community.

In the Victorian era in England, big feet were a woe to women and were always associated with spinsters who lacked femininity; while tall, small feet were what people loved. High heels just make women's feet look small and delicate. The unpopular spinsters kept men away from them due to their lack of female appeal, so women began to increase their attractiveness by attaching high heels to their bodies.

At the same time, the curved and tall feet in high heels are a typical symbol of female beauty, and also symbolize the outstanding aristocratic class and European identity. Africans and Americans do not have tall feet. ①The higher the heel and the taller the foot, the more noble and elegant a woman will be. Therefore, high heels attract men at the same time on the two levels of physical sexiness and mental elegance.

On the other hand, the female body wearing high heels is charming, elegant and tasteful. Small and straight female feet not only highlight the beauty of women's curves, but also help women to join the upper class society in terms of image and temperament (even if only in imagination). The definition of all this is not only due to Europe's advanced economy and civilization, but also due to the special connotation given to high heels by a male-dominated society. In fact, the more obvious the femininity is, the more obvious the distinction between women and men will be. This distinction is the product of patriarchal social construction. By looking back at history, we can see that the relationship between men and women hidden in high heels has always been unequal.

High heels have become a kind of distinction, separating men from women. Men lead to a higher social status, while women stay or even decline in status. In fact, critics have long pointed out that wearing high heels has a damaging effect on women's bodies. The burden on the waist increases, the muscle tissue of the legs will be damaged, and excessive force is placed on the toes and forefoot, causing women to feel as if they are walking on the tip of a knife.

But why do women still continue to be enthusiastic about high heels, as if they are unaware of the physical pain? The reason is that "male society incorporates the relationship of dominance into a biological nature and legitimizes this relationship, and this This biological nature is itself a naturalized social structure." In a male-dominated social order, women are subject to a kind of symbolic violence, which is "gentle, imperceptible and invisible violence to its victims" and is "implemented through purely symbolic means."

Women gain many beautiful imaginations in high heels and are praised and appreciated by men. Those sexy or elegant femininity are the result of social definition. In this construction, women gain satisfaction and place themselves in a specific social position. By using high heels to symbolize women, men are able to easily and subtly control women's bodies and make them behave in accordance with the male's order of dominance. This logic of domination is “a distinguishing attribute, a sign or imprint.” So under the influence of high heels, the female body is quietly disciplined.